Blue Goose ~ Day 204

December 17, 2014 ~ Nogales, AZ to Deming, NM

It was spitting rain when I left Nogales, but the skies partially cleared with dramatic clouds alternating with sunshine as I drove north on a lonely but easy road to Cave Creek Canyon in Portal, Arizona. Portal and Paradise are situated on the east side of the Chiricahua Mountains, in one of the most stunning areas of a state that doesn't lack for natural wonders. I passed the Geronimo Surrenders Monument; the Cochise Stronghold (the Apache chief's sanctuary and probable burial place) is on the western side of the Chiricahuas. Everywhere one travels in the US there are reminders of Native American struggles.

Cave Creek Canyon - Chiricahua Mountains - AZ

I didn't go the extra five miles to Paradise but did drive through Portal, not realizing I had done so as the population is 60. Cave Creek Canyon, a few miles up the road, is another birding venue, much like Madera and Ash Canyon. One can stay the night or just pay a suggested $5 and watch birds in the yard. Again, there were 20-30 feeders and nearly constant bird activity against a backdrop of high canyon cliffs. I was the only person there so had my pick of seating and chose the porch as it was chilly, although occasionally the sun came out and the temperature would immediately rise by 10 degrees. Acorn Woodpeckers were numerous, and all the other birds I've been seeing constantly flew in and out including Cardinals which I haven't seen out here that often.

Acorn Woodpecker - Cave Creek Canyon - AZ

Bird and birder densities are greatly increased in spring I am told, especially the hummingbirds. We'll see, early in April, when DHC and I visit again.

The main north-south route reminded me of the Front Range road in Montana, the  road through Choteau and Augusta. Following directions from the Tucson birding book, I found the "Wildlife Pond" out in the middle of a field. It had a bit of water and a gate that was open and askew and a short section of "wall" with openings for viewing birds. Elusive sparrows flew about. The sky was a dynamic display of bright sunlight and clouds moving around in the wind as I drove north through little towns like Rodeo and Road Forks and then east towards Deming where I stayed the night. There were partial rainbows in several places and then a complete arc over the Interstate.

Near Rodeo, AZ

The small towns are pale....partly due to the weathering sun and partly from the light earth that is everywhere. Almost all the yards are fenced, many with chain link, protecting stuff, which often looks like detritus. This can be impressive. Anything bright left outside for long becomes faded. I don't see stray dogs wandering about though. There are many failed businesses in the smaller towns and along the highways, often road-house restaurants or old-style motels, now surrounded by weeds and broken concrete. And always the abandoned houses, some with trees leaning into them, or growing out of them, and often the dwelling itself tilts to the side. The window glass is always missing. They look ghosty and forlorn and intrigue me.

There are usually hills or small mountain ranges on the horizons, often dark masses of rock that rise from the desert, not at all like the Rockies farther north. Sometimes these have trees; often they are bare, accessed by narrow dusty gravel roads with the warnings of "Watch for Water" or "Not Maintained" or "Travel at Your Own Risk" or "Primitive Road." The bigger ranges  like the Chiricahuas, Huachucas or Santa Ritas are forested with conifers and hardwoods, and these have the "birding" canyons.

When possible, ranchers use the land, and roads at right angles to the highways lead to homes barely visible in the distance, usually in a small cluster of trees. I've seen no snakes lately; just snake warnings at parks and refuges. I think they are tucked away during the cold season.

I saw this a couple of times in eastern Arizona...like cracks suddenly appear in the earth?