I left the campground early and had breakfast and coffee at Gathering Grounds before going to The Nature Conservancy land where I hiked a couple of miles. What I didn't know but learned from a couple of women I met on the trail was that a rare Rufous-backed Robin has been seen here lately. I had passed a guy when I started walking who was looking through his binoculars. I continued on without speaking, but ran into his parents who said he doesn't like to hike with them because he wants perfect silence, no talking, gets impatient if there is any noise. Jeez, I was glad I didn't say a word to him. He lives in Denver but was visiting his parents who live down here in Sierra Vista.
One trail option was an old raised railroad bed, the tracks dismantled, so one was 8-10 feet above the surrounding land. The cottonwoods were immense, old and weathered and gnarled with thick roots half exposed, spreading far from the main trunk. I keep reading about the Fremont cottonwood / Goodding's willow habitat in the lower elevations, along the creeks and in the cienagas. There was actual running water in Sonoita Creek here and at Patagonia Lake instead of a dry wash.
Sonoita Creek - near Patagonia - AZ |
Later I saw the unsocial birder coming towards me, and he asked if I'd seen "the robin." I told him, "No, it's what I'm looking for..." like this was my mission from the get-go. He was leaving and said if I found it, let out a "loud bird call.....just kidding..." I did wait quietly, willing this bird to show. It didn't.
The volunteer couple at the small Visitor Center told me they will be here for several months and then go back to Lassen Volcanic National Park in northern California, where they've worked before, and are also scheduled to go to Martha's Vineyard next year. They love doing this, are currently living in a small RV on The Conservancy property and are always busy. No, they said, it doesn't get boring ever.
And then one more trip to the Paton yard where a multigenerational family group from Minnesota was hanging out. An older woman had been here a couple of time before but over 20 years ago. Birds: a Lincoln's Sparrow, Bewick's Wren, a Green-tailed Towhee... Cardinals and Pyrrhuloxias side by side for comparison, the Lazuli Buntings, Lesser Goldfinches, Gila, Ladder-backed and Acorn Woodpeckers, Red-naped Sapsucker...all good.
I had made a reservation at the hotel in order to work so checked in about 3 p.m. It had some charming features in that it was old but refurbished, with a real log fire in the lobby fireplace, Christmas greenery running up the bannister, a decorated tree, an upstairs lounge with living plants, and games and puzzles, several shelves of books, tables and a couch and comfortable chairs, a computer and printer. One walked up an indoor staircase to access a balcony with the rooms surrounding a pool. It was too chilly to use today, but there was also an outdoor second-floor covered patio with comfortable chairs. The rooms were adequate, and the Internet connection not problematic.
I had the intention of eating at the Stage and Stop (connected to the hotel) which would be decorated nicely for Christmas with low lights, and locals and fellow travelers eating out on Friday night. The food would be exceptional, the wine chilled and the ambient temperature perfect. There would be classy music. It would be festive and relaxing. That was the plan.
The reality was that I was the only person in a bright dining room which was clean but not cozy or even comfortable; the food was priced twice what it should have been and wasn't exceptional in any way. A sweet young girl (is there a legal age for kids to work in this state? as she looked about 12 or 13) took my order. The BLT with avocado on ciabatta was on whole wheat. The tortilla soup was dense. I think this was a family project and the kids were hanging out where their mom worked. There was a cute little toddler also present for awhile. I don't know if or how they were related to the proprietor of the hotel or what exactly. I just regretted eating there. How do these places stay open if no one comes in? Jerry of the hotel did say they were just starting to serve dinner. There isn't much choice in Patagonia.
Oh well....I have had three extraordinary meals on this trip so far.
American Coot - Patagonia Lake SP - AZ |
The Paton yard seems alomost too good to be true...
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