Blue Goose ~ Day 194

December 7, 2014 ~ Green Valley, AZ to Madera Canyon (Santa Rita Lodge), AZ

So…I had a plan for Madera Canyon, one of the premier birding venues in SE Arizona. It is 20 miles east of Green Valley in the foothills of the Santa Rita Mountains. 

There were three one-lane bridges on the way and at the last one, I parked and climbed over the barbed wire fence via a sturdy, two-sided step ladder and walked to the dry wash, flushing sparrows, a flycatcher, Verdins and Yellow-rumps. It was completely quiet without even the slightest breeze, the only noise the occasional vehicle passing on the road or the rustle of dry leaves or the birds, which were not very vocal. 

Getting over the fence in Madera Canyon- AZ

Next, I walked Proctor Road, past primitive camping sites, pretty much only seeing a woman with naked butt (but quilted vest on top) standing outside her tent, who scuttled out of sight when she realized someone was walking by. A few birds chattered in the distance, farther up the canyon. An occasional Phainopepla and Say’s Phoebe perched on the trees along the road into Madera.

After another couple of miles, always gaining altitude, I stopped for an hour at Whitehouse Picnic area, where birds were active. The sun was now high enough to warm me as I sat on a picnic table, scanning deep in the foliage, the exposed branches, the brush and open ground, seeing two life birds: a Hutton’s Vireo and Bridled Titmouse. There were also the usual kinglets and Yellow-rumps, sparrows and juncos and a beautiful Townsend’s Warbler, rare this time of year… With the combination of birds, sunshine, lack of insects, no wind, the trees and mountains, I was perfectly content, with no idea of what the afternoon would bring. I hung out at Whitehouse an hour, basking so to speak. 

Santa Rita Lodge just a short way further up the canyon is described in the Tucson Audubon birding book. I was reminded of my wonderful experience at Salineno in Texas. The lodge has casitas and cabins for rent, a well-stocked gift shop, but also a patio-type space overlooking two dozen bird feeders of all types. There were chairs and benches for 15 -20 people, some under a shade screen. I stayed there at least four hours, entranced by the birds which constantly flew in and out. When I left two days later, I had seen nine life birds. In addition to the Hutton’s Vireo and Bridled Titmouse, these were Arizona and Acorn Woodpeckers, Magnificent and Broad-billed Hummingbirds and Mexican Jays (seven so far).

Arizona Woodpecker - Madera Canyon - AZ

The other two were even more special. I impulsively decided to stay overnight and rented a casita for $114, too much for this time of year for a bare bones motel (casita) with a space heater that was barely adequate, Internet access that was far too spotty and slow to allow me to work, no restaurant…Still, the woman in the gift shop was pleasant, not at all promising grander accommodations, and she showed me the casitas before I decided. The other two B and Bs up the road were more expensive. Reduced pricing during the off season might bring more people. As it turned out, I think only one other person stayed here. 

But the birds were worth it. When I reviewed my photos a few days later, I realized I also had seen a Yellow-eyed Junco. I had been photographing juncos, as there were several subspecies here, and the Yellow-eyed was what I thought was the Gray-headed subspecies. So that was number eight. 

All the people sitting and watching when I arrived (whom I first assumed were overnight guests) left one by one during the afternoon. Several cars stopped by and bought ice-cream cones or sodas, along with a few motorcyclists, and cars or trucks with dogs who barked while their owners disappeared into the gift shop. But most of the time, there was a continuous display of birds: American and Lesser Goldfinches and Pine Siskins came in waves; Bridled Titmice flew in, grabbed a seed and immediately flew back out again; a few Common Ground Doves perched on the fences; up to 14 Wild Turkeys were a nearly constant presence; Chipping Sparrows; Anna’s Hummingbirds…

I ate leftover pasta from the night before and was in bed early, not being able to work. I had old movies on the TV but mostly read. The whole back wall was a window looking down into the canyon where Madera Creek actually had running water. This area has an extensive trail network, along the creek and up to mountain saddles and peaks, a respite destination from the hot valley below.