On the Road: John Day, Oregon to Lolo, Montana

Today was definitely an early spring day with many changes in the weather....

I left John Day by 8 a.m., dismayed when I looked out the motel window to see snow on the ground and snow still coming down, but I drove a long way today and saw the most amazing country. Between John Day and Ontario, Oregon, I had to go over more mountain passes which were snow-covered with poor visibility. I just went slowly hoping it wouldn't get worse. Usually, I was behind another car or truck so I could follow their tracks.

Finally, near the eastern side of the state, the snow stopped briefly, but then it started again in Idaho. Such was my day....intermittent snow showers and then relatively dry roads. I took a wrong turn in Idaho and soon realized I was heading south instead of north and turned around only to immediately see a coffee shop. I decided to get an espresso; it was the Big Star Coffee Shop. How cool is that?

I drove straight north in Idaho to Riggins (the "whitewater capital" of the country) beyond which town the route became incredibly scenic as it followed the Salmon River with massive mountains all around and then went over what is called the White Bird Grade into Grangeville. This is Nez Perce / Chief Joseph country. There are several memorials and signs explaining their travails. I could see into heaven on the top of White Bird Grade....

Driving in the early spring before significant snow-melt adds a dimension that highlights the mountain geometry, the little valleys and avalanche chutes, the thousands of trees, the peaks above the treelines. It would be challenging in mid-winter if the roads were even open, and sometimes these passes are closed temporarily. Today, however, the roads were mostly dry. The snow on the mountains from Riggins nearly all the way to Lolo, Montana, kept me awestruck as the magnificent vistas changed with each curve in the road. Words are not adequate to describe what I saw. And then, rather suddenly, coming down the other side of White Bird Grade, the sky turned a brilliant blue with bright sunshine and snow-covered evergreens and a horizon 50 miles distant.

I got gas and a sickeningly sweet Hot Buttered Rum cappuccino in Grangeville where several inches of snow had obviously just fallen, but which was already melting.

So, I decided to continue on over Lolo Pass, along the Lochsa River ("winding road next 99 miles") to Missoula. The first part was a short scenic byway, route 13 to Kooksia, through the Nez Perce Indian rez along the Clearwater River which was a lovely, fast-moving stream, the sun glinting off the water and rocks and sun-warmed banks. Several fly fishermen were chest-high in the cold water. I was glad that the Nez Perce live here and that it isn't a hyped up tourist spot.

I obviously did get over Lolo Pass but not without apprehension. The Lochsa is a designated Wild and Scenic river. There is almost no commerce on US 12 along this route, and the road runs with the river on one side and mountains on the other. There were occasional pullouts but often barely any shoulder. I kept having some niggles about snow over the pass. I called "511" for a road report and was advised about "slush and icy patches" which didn't seem TOO prohibitive. It is a two-lane of course and 18-wheelers also use this route to get across the mountains (the Bitterroots) so one has to pay attention and be sharp-eyed as there isn't wiggle room, especially not on "slush and icy patches."

I was keeping track of mileage and hoping I would get to Montana before dark. At 40 miles from the pass, slush and icy patches began and continued for 42 miles. I just went slowly and kept steadily climbing. Wherever there was shade, there was slush and the road became increaingly snow-covered. Then there would be half a mile of exposed road which would be relatively clear. I began to wonder if I was perhaps a bit reckless, but I sure as hell was not going to turn back.

The Lochsa is one definition of natural beauty. The river rocks were covered with several inches of snow, as well as the log jams and little islands. It is a fast river, but there are also a few still pools and shallow pebbled sandbars...Andree and Steve once saw a bear swimming across this river and I watched kayakers run significant whitewater while driving this route. It's one of my favorite roads.

Then, as the road really began to climb (like the last 5 miles before the summit), surprisingly, the driving got much better. There were high protective swow banks on either side, the road widened and there was more gravel for traction, especially along the edges. (No salt is used out west, or at least not in Idaho or Montana.)

And I was over Lolo Pass (still in daylight) and down, down, down to the town of Lolo, where I saw a Day's Inn and impulsively pulled in. Which was a mistake as this was by far the worst motel yet on my trip: Door was open to my room; dead fly in standing water in the bathroom; heat was marginal and I finally covered up one-third of the heater as it was blowing cold air even though I had turned it up to 80; there was a discarded empty small catsup container on the floor; AND, the Internet connection was slow and unstable causing two hours of frustration.

Why did I stay?

I was too tired to change rooms or motels, and of course didn't immediately realize the heat / Internet issue. This motel was also run by East Indians which happened several times across country, and usually they were efficient and helpful but not so here.